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Hi, all.  I'm 73, At 5' 6"  and 150 lbs. I find I don't need to go to the gym any more. Now I just have balance 800 lbs at every stop sign, and occasionally pick it up after dropping my Vulcan 1600A in slooowww u-turns when some oblivious old retiree steps in front of me. I've lived in S. Florida for 31 years and rode a bike to work every day. Retired 7 years ago. I still ride, but not enough reflexes for highways full of cagers on cellphones. Now it's all local, but I see that has its own special charm. School zones, soccer moms, 16 year olds driving their dad's zippy little BMW's. And plenty of construction. I only ride solo now as no wish to risk any body else's butt.
Anyway, as a loner when I ride, and doing my own maintainance, I don't have much in the way of resources, except for my trusty Shop Manual. And youTube. I hope someone here can offer me a simple answer to my question. Electrical work is my weak spot, and I just can't figure out this simple concept.
I know my alternator is 3 phase and uses two voltage regulator/rectifiers. Looks like they're the two identical devices with heat sinks, bolted at the front under the radiator supports. So if I want to replace my regulators do I just order two and plug and play, or am I missing something here, either more work, like accessing the stators by removing the outside cover or looking for regulatot/rectifiers to detach from the alternator?
If anyone replies, please keep it as simple as I am.
Thanks

Topic:

Motorcycle: 

8 Comments

Hi Welcome to the nut house. Electrical is my weak spot also, but Edwins will pick up on this and he's the bomb on everything

That's because your bike has two stators. https://www.electrosport.com/products/esg618-stator-kawasaki-vn1500-1600...
The real deal. http://kentuckyvulcanriders.us/Docs/Vulcan%201600%20Classic%20Service%20...
Chapter 16, page 31 Charging system.
What exactly is the bike not doing? You wouldn't like to buy parts you don't need. That's the way some stealerships fix things. Just throw parts at it until it runs.
Holler back and we'll try to track it down.

Told ya Edwins would know what to do Smiley-laughing

Thanks.
Edwin is my next stop.

Thanks for the reply.
I have a digital voltmeter showing voltage and % of full charge on my handlebar in addition to a tach mounted next to it,so I can see what's happening while I'm actually riding, At warmed up idle about 950 rpm I show 13.1-13.2v. Going up to about 2k rpm I get 13.4. Once I go past 2k the voltage drops to 13v. Manual toggling radiator fan on/off has no effect, and turning on HID headlight causes .2 voltage drop. At 4k rpm the meter flickers between 12.9 -13v.
The meter runs directly to battery thru a fuse.
I'm running a Shorai lithium iron battery. The battery is two months old, and is a replacement for the same battery that I used for the past six years.
I bought the shop manual about ten years ago and have been over the schematics and exploded views.
Page 16-4 at lower right shows both regulators.
It seems the regulators ain't regulating right. All the lights and the two Stebel and two other air horns all output properly through their relays.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Start with the battery.
Remove the seat.
What is the battery voltage? Should be 12.6v. If not, put it on charger and see if it will charge to 12.6.
Then, warm up the bike and proceed.
Next, check the charging voltage.
Read this.
Chapter 16, page 36.

Battery Charging Voltage Tester Connections Reading @3000 rpm.
14.2 ∼ 15.2 V

"Turn on the ignition switch and start the engine, and note the voltage readings at various engine speeds with the headlight turned on and then turned off (To turn off the headlight, disconnect the headlight connector in the head­light unit). The readings should show nearly battery volt­age when the engine speed is low, and as the engine speed rises, the readings should also rise. But they must be kept under the specified voltage. • Turn off the ignition switch to stop the engine, and discon­nect the hand tester. If the charging voltage is kept between the values given in the table, the charging system is considered to be working normally. If the output voltage is much higher than the values spec­ified in the table, the regulator/rectifier is defective or the regulator/rectifier leads are loose or open. If the battery voltage does not rise as the engine speed increases, then the regulator/rectifier is defective or the alternator output is insufficient for the loads. Check the alternator and regulator/rectifier to determine which part is defective."

Welcome Shvuggy from Penrith NSW Australia.
Edwin is our tech guru so your problem will be solved soon.

YOUR the man Edwin.. GOOD info.

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