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No torque power in takeoff.

I don't feel the power so much when I throttle up, and that is from takeoff to givin it the gun in any gear. It seems to take a minute to hit overdrive so to speak. Could this come from my carburetor being out of wack?
1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 classic / 50k miles. 

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4 Comments

Very first thing, check your spark plugs. Their condition will give us a starting point to work from.

When was the last tune up? Have you checked for water in your float bowls? The ethanol really makes a mess of the inside of the carbs if the bike has been setting for any time. Check your voltage you need at least 13 volts while running at 2500 RPM. Ride safe and welcome to the site.

Well, sounds to me that you need to sync your carbs and add some seafoam to the gas for some cleaning.

Edwins is correct as first look even though two plugs per cyl. Ign. timing is pretty bulletproof, if idling good but sluggish anywhere above, check main jet seat holes, but first! without pulling carbs, --- My '88 1500 new to me, and after I did a carb. o-haul, it pulled good at low RPMs but layed down anywhere above 50-60 MPH in high gear. Pulled gas tank and with a screwdriver for the easy to get-to screws and a short screwdriver tip and a 1/4" end wrench on the hard-to-get-to screws I got the C/V covers off and pulled the diaphragms/sliders out. I found a couple of small holes in one of the diaphragms only after stretching and holding to light. I cleaned the diaphragm on lower side (non suction side) with isopropyl alcohol, and dotted some 3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive on bottom of diaphragm at holes and let dry in sun for 3-4 hours. Installed, it pulled in high from gear 40-90 MPH like a lawyer on the other side of your money, still pulling hard but fast enough for me. I ordered and received new diaphragms from JTM Industries, Must get a pay-pal invoice (don't need an account) They have instructions on their site, fast (received 5 days after order), break off old plastic retainer and rubber, replace with theirs. Mine quick fix is still working good so haven't installed them yet.
P.S. I did an old school trick for quicker response and enlarged the hole at the bottom of the slide next to the main needle (after removing the needle) to 1/8" with a bit and drill. This is where the vacuum to raise the slide comes from. It could be bigger but pulses at low RPM would put more ware on diaphragms. Hope this helps, GW
Edit, I forget to mention, when installing diaphragms, springs and covers, you need to loosen band clamp and remove the rear carb. inlet tube from the air box and on front carb. loosen inlet band clamp and twist inlet tube out of the way. When installing diaphragms on each carb. find a plastic or anything about 1/2"? diameter to slip into inlet throat of carb under edge of slide and against the needle (after needle has started into seat) to hold the slide in a more up position. This is where it is the easiest and proper position to make sure that the outside of the diaphragm can be securely seated into the grove at top of carb. body before spring and cap goes on. Start the easiest screw first and ensure cap is almost flush (outer edge of dia. is still properly in place). the choke bracket on the left carb. is a pain and gets in the way but it works. (In this odd case assemble easiest screws first) GW

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