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Oil Change for a 2005 Suzuki C90

I want to start doing my own maintenance, any suggestions on what oil to use as well as what other things I should do would be great. Thanks for the help.

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12 Comments

you must use oil for bikes it ref is ma oil do not use sae oil that is car oil it may damge you morto and tran get a book on your bike from the dearl if you do not have one it we tell all must ever thing

Well........call me stupid but I have read hear and other forums that regular SAE or car oil makes NO difference.  My Kawasaki manual says NOTHING about NOT use a specific oil, as I use Valvoline 10-40 on my change 800 miles ago.  Just my opnion.

I highly reccomend checking your manual as to what oil to use. My manual for the Ole Sabre specifically says do not use SAE rated Oil and to use the MA rated oil. Main reason is for the wet sump.

Oil is a subject that can be a can of worms when addressed. Everyone has their own favorite. I am one of those who changed to synthetic oil. I noticed that my engine runs cooler, I picked 2 mpg, and I used to have an annoying click or thump when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. That issue is no more. I changed to Amsoil around the 1K mark, and have never look back.

Have fun and Ride Safe.

I can tell you from being in the automotive field and having gone to a valvoline (ashland oil) vendor presentation there is a HUGE difference in automotive oil and motorcycle oil. the previous post was spot on. it involves the wet sump in the bikes. automotive oil will cause damage. maybe not right away but it will. also they recommend not using synthetics too quickly. there have been issues in bikes that have used it before 10000 miles and had problems with seals leaking. just fod for thought. i use valvoline or castrol 20-50 motorcycle oil that u can get from the local auto parts stores. ride safe !

Doing your own oil changes and maint is for the most part just a matter of reading the manual.  As much as reading the instructions is against the male upbringing it does save money in the end and usually some scrapes and bruises.  When you think about it, oil is cheap, motors are expensive.  If you are a novice at doing the mechanics READ the manual carefully and follow the steps, DON'T take shortcuts. You will find that over time you can take on more and actually get to enjoy it.

When I change oil I check my plugs, tire condition(cuts, nicks)pressures, grease points and in general check out the whole bike.  Better to see a problem in your driveway than out in the middle of nowhere.  It's also a great way to justify more tools, add ons and shiney stuff since you're already working on the bike

Keep the shiney side up

oil change

I use CASTOL GTX 10W40 AND PUT 30K ON THE OLD BIKE AND NEVER CHANGED BACK DIDN'T HAVE ANY TROUBLE OR PROBLEMS AT ALL, THE NEW C90T GOT ONE CHANGE WITH BIG MONEY SUZUKI OIL AND WAS SOLD A AFTER MARKET FILTER ANYWAY THAT WAS IT, NOW CASTOL AND WIX OR NAPA FILTER FROM THE LOCAL PARTS STORE (IF YOUR PARTS STORE DOES NOT CARRY THE MOTORCYCLE FILTER THEY WILL ORDER THEM IN AND AT A FRICTION OF THE PRICE) THEY WANT YOUR BUSINESS. OF CORSE THE DEALERS WANT YOU TO BUY THERE OIL THATS HOW THEY MAKE MONEY SO THEY CAN CHARGE 90 BUCKS FOR A OIL CHANGE WHAT YOU NEED TO LOOK FOR IN YOUR MANUAL IS THE RATING THE C90T TAKES A SJ RATING IF YOU LOOK ON THE BACK OF THE DEALER OIL ITS VALVILINE OR ONE OF THE LEADING BRANDS I BELIVE. YAMAHA OIL IS BP BUT I COULD BE MISTAKEN? MOST OIL IS INTERNATIONAL SAME DIFFERANCE JUST FIGURE OUT THE RATING AND START SAVING ALOT OF MONEY IN OIL CHANGES. IF YOUR SO INCLINED CHECK OUT EBAY SOME TIMES YOU CAN GET A  BULK PRICE FOR YOUR FILTERS.

From Suzuki direct.

1. 10w40 is reccomended.

2. the difference in sae (the oil weight) and API/ma is depending on the lab api or jaso, jaso uses an ma designation

Look in the manual you can use api as long as its sf sg or sh sj designated by api or for jaso MA. So you do not need ma specific oil unless you are using just the jaso standard.

 

Pretty easy huh.

IT'S A PERSONAL THING, BUT DO NOT USE CAR OIL,....EVER. SOME LIKE SYNTH, SOME LIKE ME HATE IT AND PREFER TO DO FREQUENT CHANGES. I LIKE MOTUL 3000 EVERY 4000 KLM'S BUT THATS ME. FIND A SUITABLE OIL AND STICK TO IT, AND I CHANGE THE FILTER EVERY SECOND TIME AS I DO IT SO OFTEN. CHEERS TIMC

Unlike a car,a motorcycle uses oil as an assembly for the cjlutch(wet clutch)so automotive oil may not benifit the bike.go with what the manu. recommends or go to dealer and see what they rec.

ONE THING THATS NOT BEEN MENTIONED IS THE TEMPERATURE OF THE AREA YOU LIVE IN.  AS A RULE, -10TO 35C, RUN 10W30. -10 TO45C, RUN 10W40. 0 TO45C, RUN 15W40. AND 5 TO50C, RUN 20W50.

THIS IS SO AT STARTUP THE OIL ISN'T TOO THICK TO GET TO ALL PARTS OF YOUR ENGINE QUICKLY, AND AS THE MOTOR WARMS UP THE OIL BECOMES MORE VISCOUS TO PROTECT THE MOVING PARTS AT THE HIGHER RUNNING TEMPS. HOPE THAT HELPS. CHEERS TIM

Last summer (2013) my battery died out in Regina, SK. Replaced it, got home to Peterborough, ON and found out that the stator had shorted & died which caused the problem with the battery. I replaced the stator. I was just informed (May 2014) that the new one has died. Someone suggested that the oil I am using might be causing this problem. Comments, please.

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