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Suzuki Intruder Impossible Battery Places

Hello Everyone.

If you have a Suzuki Intruder 800, have you tried to remove the battery? Have you succeeded? Any pointers?

I find the position of it extremely difficult. I could not see a way to remove it as it was in the battery box. I opened the battery box and had the battery drop to the ground; even less success!. So, I lifted it back in the battery box. The space to work is the size of a small postage stamp. Is there a special tool that can be used to disconnect the negative and then the positive?

Thanks in advance for any pointers ... or commiseration.

Mario

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Motorcycle: 

34 Comments

You need a 12 year old to get to the battery they have little fingers.. It is a very tight area and a pain in the rear. I will double look in my 800 manual.

put the back wheel on a 2x4

Thank you!

I look forward to what you see in your 800 manual, Scruffy. I have a Clymer Manual, and it makes it look too easy, the heat sink is lower than in mine; the negative nut is on a vertical plane; mine has a bit higher heat sink and the negative is on a horizontal plane inside the battery box.

Eynstyn, Is the 2X4 so that I can remove the nuts from underneath the bike? The battery box opens fully in mine (I tried it), but of course the battery would just hang because the cables are still attached.However, as Scruffy pointed out, adult fingers are not small enough to get inside that postage stamp space Suzuki engineers created for removing the negative and positive screws.

In the meantime, I will just clean it and make it shiny until the weather is good.

I removed the left cover and see two cables screwed to two screws next to each other. They are on the right side of the fuse box. I am wondering if I can charge the battery that way with a battery charger...?

Well, I removed the fusebox, put the positive croc of the battery tender to the positive, the negative crook to the negative, changed the two fuses of power source, and it is charging! I hope it bypasses the problem of removing the battery in an old Suzuki intruder..

Thank you, Edwin. I followed the Clymer Manual's directions. I just couldn't reach the negative and it does not look as it looks in the picture. I then opened the battery box to drop the battery because some people have battery cables that are long enough to work on the battery that way; mine aren't that long, so that I pushed the battery back up.

In the meantime, what I did was to remove the fusebox cover and use a battery charger by connecting the battery charger's cables to the positive and negative screws at the bottom of the fusebox. It seems to be working since the "battery charging" light in the charger (mine is yellow) is now illuminated; it wasn't until I changed the power source fuses. I'll wait overnight and see if the (green) light for "fully charged" appears. I am hoping it does so that I push the day of reckoning with an old battery until next winter.

What I will have to get eventually is a phillips screwdriver that is shaped in the form of an L for the very little space that there is to work on, or perhaps a short screwdriver the handle of which I can grip with another tool that I would then use to turn the screwdriver? I don't know... It's a challenging battery position.

I have a couple 0f screwdrivers for just such occassions.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Offset-Screwdriver-4-pc-Set-Bent-Right-Angle-Ph...

Thanks!!!

I read the battery removal procedure from the service manual. That is a chore that one should have to do once in a life time. Good work Edwin..

when i had my '99 i dropped the battery with the cables, than unscrewed them from the battery, mine where long enough. the 2x4 is so the frame sits higher it make the battery clear the frame easier.
we don't leave our batteries in for winter so it was done many times.

Ah! I do wish the cables in my 97 were as long. Maybe Suzuki listened to complaints about the difficulty of reaching the battery. The bottom door does open and the battery comes down, but not nearly far enough to reach any screw or nut. I used a mirror to see if I could reach from below, but the space is too narrow and the bits are on top of the battery anyway.

Right now I have it charging with a Battery tender (a Schumacher), using a long electric cable from my house to the shed where I keep the bike, but it has aborted twice (and I have no idea what it means in terms of the health of the battery), and I'd rather charge it inside my house.

I wonder whether it would be easier to remove the battery box and then the battery... What do you think?

If you ever get it out maybe install longer cables on. This may make it easier later on. My service manual is for a 800 Volusia. The battery is easy to get to. Good luck on your quest..

I got the damn thing out! I am going to get longer cables now or a battery that has the slots for the connectors facing left for negative and right for positive, rather than facing up or forward. That was crazy.

Thank you, folks, for all the support! Since this is upstate New York, I have plenty of time to get old Suzy in shape.

Congrats! Got me wondering if you might have the wrong battery. You can check the battery's number to be sure.
For example,
Yuasa YuMicron Batteries YB16B-A1. Just google the number.
and cables
https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d367dbf870021ee0215c35/...

Thank you. I'll check the site out.

Your guess was right. It's a different design in the terminals. It is no wonder it was so difficult to take out.

That sucks that someone installed the wrong battery. What were they thinking? Good you got it out

I love it when a plan comes together. Nice new gel cell time. Wayne can explain how to build a better ground cable.

I love it when a plan comes together. Nice new gel cell time. Wayne can explain how to build a better ground cable.
FYI, I graduated from North Syracuse High.

At least you got graduated. I was given one and told never to return. The Math teacher gave me just enough grad to get out. Now I am retired and glad of it.. Cables are easy just have to use the right kind of cable.

Guys, I appreciate your help in this. I will try to do all the work myself since I have plenty of time before the bike gets out. It is snowing right now!

The ground cable seems good. However, should I change it now that I am installing the positive cable? I am not sure there is enough space to install long cables. It looks like a very tight fit. I was thinking that the right kind of battery should make the job of installation relatively easy... Maybe, I am new at this. I like the feeling of doing these things myself, however.

Measure the current batteries dimensions. Do a comparison.
For example.
Yuasa YuMicron Batteries YB16B-A1
Battery, 12 V, 200 Cranking Amps, Top Post, 6.313 in. Length, 3.562 in. Width, 6.375 in. Height,
Google for a picture to see the terminal placement.
Compare batteries within your budget. The more cold cranking amps, the better.

Thank you.

When your getting new battery cables get the cable with the finest wire strands. The finer the better and the more flexible. The less amperage drop while cranking the engine. The finer cable will keep the battery charging with less effort from the stator.

Thanks. I'll do that. I'm planning on fixing the problem soon. I hope that I have no problems but I may ask you if I get stuck :-).

Have fun fixing your bike. That is what I am doing now on the 07 Stratoliner plugs ,adjust the valves, replace the shock spring with a stiffer one so I can get in and out of the corners better. Getting the ECU re flashed. That should keep me busy for a couple weeks or so.

I am getting my new battery and cables tomorrow. So It'll be ready by March Smiley-laughing

The Good: I finally was able to install the battery. I had to use a 2x4 to raise the rear tire. It took me hours to connect the negative cable to the negative terminal. Only my small finger could fit in the space to guide the screw. So, I had to use two screwdrivers and a lot of patience to install it.

The Bad: When I was trying to remove the old shorter cable from the plastic casing underneath the fusebox, I broke the casing.

The Ugly: The shorter cable of the *new* positive cable is too short, so that it cannot be attached to the plastic casing. (There is one more space left where it could theoretically go.)

Do you folks know the name of that plastic casing underneath the fusebox? All sorts of cables go to it, however, and I do not think I am qualified to remove all those cables and reinstall them.

One odd think about the old shorter cable of the positive cable is that the space where it was installed was all plastic. If so, how is it connected to all the wiring coming into it?

I appreciate your advice.

Looking at some drawings on the internet, what is damaged is the casing to which the wiring harness is attached. The casing is immediately below the fuse box. How big is the job to fix it?

The casing would that be the top battery cover. The + battery cable routes through the top of it. and over to the fuse block. You may be able to get some Permetex Plastic weld. this stuff is very good at repairing plastic. If you can get to the damaged piece you should be able to repair it with this plastic weld. You should get it at any auto parts or hardware store. Once mixed you have about 60 sec to get it applied, it sets up quickly.

Thank you, Wayne. I'll try to post a photo of the damaged area. I am not sure I have described it correctly.

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