Secondary menu

Search form

Powered by

Vstar 650

Hey guys,just bought a beautiful VStar classic,it had been sitting a while so I emptied the tank,cleaned carbs and I have run a tank of premium with seafoam through her,and believe me it runs way better now than before. My question is the engine light is on,it now idles fine but I can't get more than 65 to 70 mph out of it. The previous owner removed the Ais will this create the engine light? A few of the things done to bike are Vance and Hines pipes,and Hyper charger intakes. Not sure if the carbs were re-jetted when these mods were done,would this be my problem?





When you turn on ignition does it flash on and off and then stay on? If so count how many times it flashes and report back. Does it flash at high RPMs too?And which light oil, temp, etc. Is it a california bike?

You will be near the max RPM's the bike can deliver at 75.

Loose wire or bad sensor. Removing the AIS is a good things. If the carb was rejeted then it probably needs one of these. Call and ask them if this will fix the problem before buying. It did on my 1100. My bike would cut out premature and had to replace the ignition module too.

"The owners manual says the check engine light means a electrical device used to monitor the engine is defective. If you turn the key on does the light stay on. It should go out after a few seconds. Time to grab the shop manual and do the dreaded (lol) electrical bug hunt.
Have you checked your plugs? They can tell you a lot about what your carbs are doing. Carb cleaner works wonders, BUT it's not always a total cure. My buddy soaked his carbs Didn't cure the trouble. Did it again, still no go. I blew air through the passages with my compressor and a bit of sand flew across the shop and hit him in the face. Told not to stand there, he listened the next time. Bike ran great.

It does blink at first,then stays on,its the engine light,and as far as I know not a Call!ifornia bike

How come yamaha doesn't put oil light on 650? As far as I can tell it only has only turns, bright, and engine. Oh well. If you can stand riding it as is then do so. If you want the light out see above.

The The MAX-CSR Kit : Carburetor Solenoid Removal kit fools the sytem and light goes out.

I bought this bike for a lady friend of mine,it looks awesome,and its a Yamaha,I really thought Yamaha's were very reliable,this one makes me doubt that . I mean it doesn't even have a tach. The bike is at my friends house,so I can't get to it to count the blinking light. It does stay on when riding,I was thinking it might be because the Ais had been removed

Thanks for the response guys

I mean it rides good and all,but I think it should have more power,gonna let my buddy rejett the carbs

Once you start on your path to performance, it opens a whole bunch of issues. But fortunately, there's folks out there that make products to solve them. If you like the bike then find the solutions. Well my experience with my bike is that once I put in the Carburetor Solenoid Removal the light went out. But, then at high RPM's the light would come on...this is because the Ignition module had a built in Rev limit and would cut out the gas to the motor. The good news is the new Ignition module gave me the ability to set the limit upto 8000 if I wanted to. I have it at 7000 now. If I remember it right. I liked my bike so I bought Dyna miniature coils as well, but was not needed. You call and talk to Maxairengineering, I pretty much bought everything they sale because of the success of their products and happiness they brought me. Just a note: I get nothing for saying so.

Rejetting isn't hard, but just remember it isn't done until you've synced the carbs. Seems the least you can do is post us a picture of the bike.

Good point about syncing the carbs. If you had them off, that might be the fix for the preformance issue.

Hey,thanks Drew,will post pics when I get there tomorrow note,I live over an hour away from bike,but will be there for the weekend

If your bike has already been re-jetted you should have pod air filters. Check, if they have air pods underneath the tank istead of the air box, then it has probably already been rejetted. Oh I see you have a hypercharger, stick with it if you like it. But K&N air filters will give you some more HP. I would check the main jets sizes installed before buy a rejet kit. This would help explain the light coming on. The Carberator Solenoids wires have probably been disconnected. If it doesn't you'll want to get some air pods and a jet kit. Some website might tell you what jets you need and will be cheaper to buy the jets directly, just make sure you get the right type for your carb. But you will need the needles as well so a kit is easier than trying to buy needles too. Again you may experience the light coming on at high RPMs and this would require a new Dyna ignition module to fix it.

Go to Youtube and search "Syncing a motorcycle carburetor" to find out how it is done. I use motionpro, but there are several ways, even making your own. I don't recommend building your own as they are messy.

OK,just checked the bike,5slow blinks followed by 8 fast blinks,I even left key on and it did several cycles, all the same pattern,anyone have a manual that can tell me what code it is

This information may not be right as it came from a discussion I found.

Speed sensor is 4 long
Ignition coil 1==== 3 long pause 3 short
Ignition coil 2==== 3 long pause 4 short
Cutoff 1 ======== 5 long pause 7 short
Cutoff 2 ======== 5 long pause 8 short

Disconnect battery wait a 30 minutes reattach. Might reset it, if it does it maybe temporary. Check for dangling wire or loose connection. I think cutoff 2 is a solenoid on carb or part of the needle area. Read your manual to see where it is located. I'll keep looking for more information so keep checking here for updates and post the picture of da bike.

Here's an old CC discussion of cut off valve. They didn't identify the " The MAX-CSR Carburetor Solenoid Removal kit" as the solution but I think that your best bet. It will plug the solenoid and bypass the engine light, but you will not have the gas cut off when the bike reaches the limit for RPMs, which is a good thing unless you intend to ride it at high RPM's with no regard to the engine. Besides your ignition module has a RPM limiter as well. You didn't say what year your bike is.

Here you read:

Vstar 650 Service manual download. Make you click "download PDF" and save to you computer

Looks like it's an Air cut off 5-10

This should make it easy to spot

Thanks man,you are the best,looks like I've got some tinkering to do. Will post pics in the morning!

The wires on the solenoids have been removed,the local Yammie dealer tod me they weren't needed,is this what is causing my problems?

yes, they can't report back to the system. They probably cut the wire because it would cut the engine when it hit the solenoid rev limit. If you want to ride without light call maxairengineering and talk to Lee. Tell him a Maxhead referred you. Your choice. Again even after the light goes out it may light up everytime you hit the rev limit on ignition module. Or you can just ride the bike. Looking forward to see your bike.

Drew,just ordered the solenoid removal kit,can't wait to get one more piece of the puzzle.

Their kit will plug the solenoid so it will never be an issue. Don't know why they don't sell a rejet kit for the 650 at max. But you need to buy Mikuni type jets, mine use small round jets, not sure what 650's use. No rush on that. You will want to buy new screws for the bowls because they strip easy. And the needles I am still looking for info. If you decide to go with pods under the tank, you can still use the hypercharger for looks, I think. You can on the 1100. Keep updating us to your progress.

You bet,

Curios,why go with pod filters under the tank?

Instead on one filter, a pod filter will be two of them sitting on your two intake plastic elbows up under tank. More filter square inches better air flow. That's how it is on mine. I really don't know if they do that on the 650's. You basically abandon your air box and side filter. Here's a link on what I am working on for my fake side filter. But a hypercharger looks pretty cool. You really don't have to go full performance on your bike. How far you can take a 650 is just so far. Same with the 1100. Just get running well.

Well,just want it to run "correctly", its for my girlfriend, doesn't need to be a performance monster,just want it to be able to maintain highway speed

"58" -- Fuel cut solenoid valve #2 disconnected/shorted This code is for a 1100. I believe it's the same for a 650.
See part 41 on list.

Just got a pic up,thanks guys for all your help!

Let us know when you get her fixed up.

From my review of jets, look like you'll want to get Mikuni small round jet sizes 100 112.5 and 130, various sizes so if it's not perfect you can try next size. You'll need two each. here's a discussion:

you can find them on ebay:

still looking for needle

As far as air filters go, your easiest route is staying with the hypercharger. Make sure though that the air filter inside is a K&N filter. If it is not, try to match it up to a K&N replacement using the filter number of your filter. These filters breath very well. They are lifetime filters that you clean every so often with their cleaner and oiling kit.

Replacement Screws for float bowl, and shims for the needle. (Stock needle?) The adjustment of the needle make a huge difference in acceleration. On my bike to adjust by making the needle up higher was an increase in power. So the shims should make the needle less deep. Going too far up will make it too rich and you will be able to tell its not right. Important to get it right or you nice chrome exhaust will blue.

A PMS replacement screws are helpful but not necessary. You will need to carefully drill a shallow hole in brass cap to pop it off to reveal screw below. Simply turn it closed with screw driver and then back it out three turns or three and a half. If you can find replacement screws they will make it possible to adjust it with out removing carburator. It isn't necessary because once you adjust it it really shouldn't require changes later but is nice if you can.

you should pull the carb at some time and check, they may have already re-jetted it and replaced the float bowl screws and needles. If so just check the size of jet, type of needle and PMS screws. If the PMS caps are still on then it hasn't been rejetted...or not properly. Do that before ordering anything for rejetting.

Thanks Drew,all your links are kinller


Try to measure the smallest part of the bore inside the carb. (around the middle)
The size of the mouth at the manifold and filter sides doesn't really matter.

As far as shimming your needle, I would use only one shim (washer). A small adjustment is all that is least it was on mine.

This will make it her sport, not just something she does with you. And her bad experiences will be hers, not something she holds against you. Chicks have a bad experience they quit the sport.

If you decide to use pod filters. What you could do, is pull the elbow off the carb and either measure the diameter or take it with you to the hardware store. Then find either a PVC thin walled pipe (rigid not too thin) that fits snug in the rubber elbow. If you decide to use metal, make sure it is stainless steel. You will need about 8" of the pipe which you will cut into 2 4" pieces. The rubber elbow should already have a clamp on it, but if doesn't you will want to get one. Then go to the Auto store and see if they have a selection of K&N conic air filters. Find one that fits over the PVC pipe snug and will fit under the tank. Say 3 inches high. You will need a clamp for the filters too. Note the price and part number, then go to the Internet to see if you can get the filters cheaper. Now you have pods. Now you can remove that bulky air box, but don't throw anything away because their is nothing you have done that is not reversible. Make sure you leave us pictures of what your doing so we can enjoy your efforts.

If you go pods you will also have to put a breather filter on the crankcase tube.

Since you would have two separate filters supplying air to each carburetor, the syncing of the carbs is very important to balance the air pressures so they deliver the same fuel mix to the cylinders. Sync the carb with the engine warm and at idle (1000 RPM then at 2000, the lower RPM is most important) Motion-pro is handy, but if I were to buy one today, I would go with:

Some folks use a truck mud guard and cut it to match the top bike frame and use it to mount filters and breather filter for a finished look and noise dampening. Just make sure your filters can get plenty of air. Your filters will make a sucking noise that can be heard if your exhaust is quiet.

Disconnect insulator hose for your elbows. They look like sleeves not elbows.

I know your waiting on shipping for fix for light. Let us know what you've decided. You know if you decide not to replace the float bowl screws you probably could go to ACE hardware and pick up 2 small "stainless steel" or rubber washers to use to shim your needles. Take your needle with you and get one the fits properly.

When done, your cycle will have way more horsepower such that it will easily power up to the rev limiter on ignition module. Light should come on each time it does. Performance Ignition module would be the next step in the performance path. Dyna is what I have. If you decide to do that, just make sure it is for the right year of your bike.

Installed carb solenoid removal kit ,check engine light is now gone,still won't go over 65. So I guess its rejetting time

Glad to hear it worked. I think I pretty much spilled my guts on what I know about it already. Keep us updated. I'd like to know what you decided to do with the air filter. You are probly being held back by the rev limited in the ignition module, you just don't have enough HP to trigger that light yet. It is worth it. If it comes while your girlfriend is riding it, just tell it means she's riding to fast. LOL

Kit re-jet sizes:
Stock: 100 main jets, 22.5 Pilot Jet, Needle clip
Barons: 112 main jets, 22.5 Pilot Jet, Needle slot #4
Stealth Kit: 130 Main jets, 22.5 Pilot Jet, Needle Slot #4

So don't worry about Pilot Jet it doesn't change, just main jet and needle. Like I said just find a washer and you may have to play with it to find the sweet spot of washers, start with one. The kits probably replace your stock needle, but I don't think you have to, just try a washer.

Don't forget you need to locate the brass covers over the idle screws. Then ever so carefully drill an opening in them so you can pop them off. Carefull not to drill the screws, just very swallow, and little pressure. (Make a note on how many turns it took to reach it's resistance. That way if you ever decide to reverse everything your doing, you can set it to the right amount of turns for stock.) Then turn idle srew in until it resists turning, then count the turns as you turn the other way. three full turns open. Use a marker, place a dot at some point on the screw so you can easily count the turns.

Keep us updated.

Well just got the VStar back from the shop ,OMG,what a difference,it sounds and runs like a different bike. The mechanic that did the work said the carbs had wrong jets and was missing some O_rings..Pretty much what I expected,also fixed an oil leak around the neutral sensor switch. Now I'm finally happy with this bike!

Ride safe. What did he charge you for his magic? And did you get Pods or stay with Hypercharger?


Add new comment

Please login if you already have an account or enter your details below to create one.

Your Details