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Bike won't constantly start

So I bought my bike two years ago now, and I've been constantly having starting issues. I had the bike rejected, and that seemed to mitigate the issues for a while, but now they're cropping up again.

1. When the bike started I always had to have the choke 1/2 way open for about 3-5 minutes or it would sputter and die.
2. Recently it stopped working completely. It cranks over, but doesn't fire up even with the choke fully open. I've replaced the battery, but nothing's changed. The night before it wouldn't start I filled it up and it was sounding great.
3. Went out after 2 weeks of sitting and it fired right up. Rand it for a couple of minutes and it sounded good. Now I'm back to it now starting again...

I know nothing about mechanics, and can only fix stuff after I watch it on YouTube. With all that in mind, any ideas besides a $1,000 dollar trip to the shop?

Carb Sync

While taking time to overthink my overly bright tach, I decided to make a carb sync...although it looks like a Hannibal Lecter bloodletting contraption (which actually had some neighbours yelling over 'hows the patient?') it worked really well...the sync was way off as one vacuum was drawing the fluid almost up and over the top of the stick when I started. After messing with the adjustment screw for about 20 minutes, I finally got the carbs sync'd (fluid levels even)...and what a difference in performance - a lot less vibration and higher RPM to shift (from 3500 on my tach to 4000). I wasn't sure it would make as much difference as it did...and probably saved me a ton by making one, as opposed to buying guages or taking it into the shop to have it done.
Minimal cost - 1 @ 3/16 hose, 1 @ homemake stand marked off in inches, 1@ 2 cycle engine oil, a bunch of cable ties.

vardy, Matt01, tezza and 7 others like this.

compression problem

I have a 1999 Suzuki Intruder 1500 LC with 70,000 miles on it.  Have kept the oil changed and well maintained since I bought it new in 2000.  Have noticed a little popping on deceleration lately.  Performed a compression test with the engine hot and found my front cylinder is running 140+ but rear cylinder is 122.  Took a trip on it a few weeks back and during the trip, it started backfiring a little at one time, and then seemed to have a light clicking when cold, but then seemed to straighten up.  A couple of times since, I noticed when I started it, only one cylinder ran for a few seconds and then the other cylinder kicked in.  Any suggestions?  Can you overhaul the top end, without changing the rod bearings?

putting 800 carbs on 1400

can i use the carbs from a 800 on a 1400 if they are the same year 1996 i can not find a rear carb for this bike last guy broke the float bowl mount trying to remove the pin they said i need a new rear carb at the shop but i can not find one other than high priced ones just thought i would ask before i spend the money 

M109 idle issue

I recently traded my boulevard m90 for the m109 boss. The bike idles below 1000rpm.  I took it back to the dealer and he claims that’s the way the bike idles and it Cannot be changed due to the bike being Fuel injected. The bike feels like it wants to stall and if I release the throttle it reduces speed rapidly. It feels really sluggish in low speeds. Any suggestions?