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Steering Head Bearings

Steering Head Bearings

Been getting some weird steering going on. So I jacked her up and the bearings need replacing just as well I've got the Tiger.


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I've done those What a pain. The Harley neck is such that you need a special tool to get the races out. I didn't have one and sure was not going to spend $100+ to get one so I used my dremal to cut them out. It was a pain but I got more time than money so what the heck

Also save some big $$$ by doing it yourselves . Good job

Val I should be able to use a drift to remove the outer race. At this point I need a 35mm socket to remove the stem nut and some C-Spanners.

First drama, I had to remove my Scoot risers to get access to the stem nut and they have those wretched nuts with the metal locking device and in removing them its cross threaded one of them. I'm hoping Scoot works can supply me with some new ones. Or I'll be calling on my mate Mark to spin some up on his lathe ( I hope ).

Oh well its all good fun and I love doing this sort of stuff and Vardy as you say I'll save some $$. Labour alone in removing the front end would be plenty. I expect everything to run smoothly, I wasn't expecting the thread stripping out of all things.

Doing it yourself surely safes a lot of money, but it is some work to do! Great you CAN do it yourself, I would only make big trouble, that’s for sure!!!

Saves money if you can do it yourself.

Ah, the bad old days when I discovered that the only thing keeping the bearings in the races on my old Bonnie was grease. 40 tiny metal spheres bouncing merrily across the concrete,

Good for you Dave! Get a great deal of satisfaction working on your own stuff.

Yep and I'm in no hurry so I can take my time. It was getting pretty bad its definately got a flat spot in the bearing as it comes to rest just a little of centre towards the right, way more pronounced now that the wheel is off

I definitely won't be doing anything major on the Bird so the ex-Triumph dealer here in town didn't have the one tool to remove the flywheel to get to the valves adjustment. Should be a ban on specialty parts.

Great job Dave. My VTX will be up to 100,000 klms come Wild Hogs time. After that trip I will do some serious preventative maintenance.

Gee Steve its getting up there and still looking great.

I've just hit 87,000kms. Anything else I should be looking at while its in pieces ? Was thinking about some Hel brake lines as Ive had to disconnect the brake lines to remove the lower triple tree as it runs through a hole in it.

The Hel brake guy reckons run 2 seperate lines from the master on a piggy back banjo setup. However 2 lines won't fit through the original hole and he says run behind but I feel it may be prone to being pinched at full lock.

Spratty ... what about the fork springs ?

Did them about 2 years ago with Race Tech emulator gold valves.. hehe.

Good thought though.

I really should replace the chrome cans on the forks as they are a bit scratched and dented. Although with my Jack Daniel's badges over them you dont really seem, except I know they are there.

I will be doing the forks as well. With the brakes, my opinion is that if they work ok now, leave it alone.

Steve I did brakes about 15k ago and the pads still have plenty of meat on them. Will give them a clean and re grease though and will replace rubbers and master cylinder pistons also, I guess an overhaul bar the pads..

The shock are good allround. Race Tech throughout.

I'm curious as to why they need replacing Dave. Being tapered roller bearings, maybe an adjustment is all that's needed.

Tezza, I have just removed them tonight and the outer ring especially on the lower had notches in it from the rollers and the steering was settling in the middle when jacked up off the floor, wasnt a smooth motion form side to side.

Kawasaki didnt5 make it easy to remove them by having no notches under the outer rim to tap them out, but with the help of my mate Phill we got them out.

Pick up the new bearings on Thursday

Interesting. Good to see it's coming together.

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