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Suzuki intruder 800 Fuse Box and damaged connection

Suzuki intruder 800 Fuse Box and damaged connection


I couldn't post the photo in the stream already created, so I started a new stream.

Here is the problem:

I was able to install the new battery after some difficulties.

However, I broke the lower right part of the fusebox trying to change the positive cables. Because the shorter positive cable was too short to reach the lower part of the fusebox, I attached it to the positive screw in the fusebox.

Do you think that part can be replaced? If so, I would buy a positive cable that has a longer "short" cable than the one I have. That would be the cable that goes to the lower part of the fusebox (Several cables in that lower part that come, I think, from the wire harness).

One little silver lining in this storm of screw-ups is that the bike has juice and that the engine now turns, although I haven't been able to start it yet. I'll wait and try again later.

When I bought it, it did start.

I hope you can help with my problem.

Thank you.


Own Photo: 


Thanks Edwin - You are a Gem my Friend Smiley-laughing

HI try this Mario .. This is from If you need any help with removing the connectors from the fuse box or receptacles I can get you some release tools. The are very inexpensive. The best thing easy to use.

Thank you, Edwin and Wayne! you are very kind with the information and help.

I will try to repair the damage.

In the meantime, I got the bike to almost, almost start this evening. During the weekend, I'll bring a heater to the shed and see if the warmer temperatures help.

I will also look at the spark plugs and change them if necessary, and I will change the oil and oil filter: A weekend project!

From the look of the drawings and my photo, isn't what I need the part of the harness that attaches to the fusebox? That's the part that clamps to the bottom of the fusebox with all the red cables going underneath. The part I broke is to the bottom right, where the old "short" positive cable used to go.

If I have to changing the whole wire harness because of that small plastic part... well, that looks like an electrifying adventure Smiley-laughing

Sol, you broke the plug-in connector, not the fuse box?

Yes, that's the unfortunate thing I did. I didn't know the name for it.

I should add: The plug connector looks better in the picture than its actual sorry condition. The bad part is on the side touching the bike that you cannot see.

The positive cable you see in the picture is the short part of the positive cable, the one that comes from the solenoid. The old version went to the plug-in connector. The new version is too short; That is why I connected it to positive + screw. It had an end that was not appropriate to the place where I attached it. I spliced the end with a metal cutter and made a space for the screw to go through as the picture shows.

Wayne has told me to use epoxy to fix the plug in connector. I will. I'll get enough to practice before I try it on the connector itself.

I wonder whether the place where I attached the positive is good enough, however, or whether it will cause damage to the bike. Certainly if it gets loose, everything will go dead. If it's a good place for it, I should get a cable that has something like a flat donut at the end so that it can fit snuggly around the screw.

HI Mario You may be able to use a small junction block one or two pole. They are cheep. This is the name and Part # of the plastic weld I use.. Manufacture : Permatex, Name: Weatherproof Plastic Welder, Part # 84115 . This should get you the right stuff. Once you mix it up you only have 5 min of working time. It has a strength of 35,000 psi. I have used this for years and it works great. You have to work fast when fixing or molding new pieces and parts.

Thank you, Wayne.

How fast is fast?

This stuff is very fast 5-10 min at the best. It starts as soon as you get it mixed. You need to get everything ready and set up before starting. It stays where you put it it has never dripped off the piece I was working on.Once dry you can file it into shape or drill out holes. When I repaired the faring I had to us inserts for mounting the outer faring. They hold better than the stock ones. I had to mold up a couple spots to remake some mounting surfaces. I just kept touching the mix until I got the results I wanted. worked out good. after It was dry I filed it and sanded until I got the shape I needed.Kind of like fiberglass.

Got it! I am going to order it. Thanks again. I'll send you a picture when I get that part done.

COOL I think this stuff will repair the connector. It has repaired everything I used it for.

Hey, Wayne and Edwin! The bike finally started! I took it for a ride around the block. I took it up only to 2nd Gear, but it seemed to be firing fine. To my untrained ears anyway, it sounded as good as Mozart. It was sweet to get back on a bike even if it was only for less than 5 minutes. Smiley-laughing

I don't think I could have done it without your help and support!

So, next project will be the epoxy fix, a new positive cable that I can attach to the plug connector, an oil and filter change, and a check of the spark plugs.

Now the choke... It goes back a little when pulling it out to start the bike when cold. If I had a third hand I wouldn't mind, but my wife had to hold it all the way open for the bike to start and I then I kept it pulled as much as possible while the bike was warming up so that the engine wouldn't die. Otherwise, it would die. Once it was a warm, it would start normally.

In such a situation, does one adjust the choke cable or the carburetor? Both? Leave well enough alone? Who likes to ride when it's cold anyway except crazy people from Upstate New York?

Regarding the choke, I read of a clever solution:
An Intruder 800 rider had the same problem several years back that I had today. The person who replied, who also rode an Intruder, cut a piece of rubber or plastic tubing to the same length of the fully extended choke. He then made a lengthwise cut in the tube which allowed him to slip it in and out the fully extended choke. The bike would then easily start.

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