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Carburetor problems?

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Hey guys, so I bought a 06 v star 1100 2 months ago and after the first month it cut off on me for the first time, it just started running lean, it happened out of nowhere on the highway. This trend continued until the point it just wouldn't start up. So I'm gonna list what I've done so far and I've got a video of where it's currently at when running that I'll post as well. I just don't have money to take it to a mechanic and besides as I'm beginning my riding career, I want to be able to work on my own machines. Any advice or tips to point me in the right direction are greatly appreciated.
1 I pulled Carbs for cleaning cause I figured pilot circuit was clogged, cleaned the jets (both pilots were clogged) float bowl and the needle that comes from the top of the carb, because I didn't have faith I was gonna do it properly.
Bike still wasn't working
Took carbs off again and cleaned jets again (both pilots were clogged again must've not cleaned the carbs well enough. This time I made the pilot circuit was clean) I adjusted the pms screw 3 turns out and put carbs back on. After some effort and playing with the idle set screw (did not sync carbs) I got the bike up and running and went for a ride that day. It was running lean for the first couple minutes but after really opening the throttle that went away and the bike seemed to be running good as far as I could tell. Next day went to take her for a ride, started up but after 5mins down the rd she started doing what she was doing in the beginning and running lean she cut off and I couldn't get it started for 3hrs.
Replaced fuel filter, cleaned tank and petcock, and pulled the carbs to clean again (pilot jets were yet once again clogged so I must be doing something wrong.) cleaned carbs and after a lot more frustration than I was expecting I synched the carbs. Went for a ride up the street could and it was still running lean.
The we get to today pulled the carbs (didn't check jets probably should've) adjusted pms screw out to 3.5 and hooked up all back up then I decided to dump half a bottle of seafoam in the gas tank to see if it would help. Idled the bike for about 45mins with the sea foam in the tank, at the end it started to die again like it was running lean so after I got the bike running again I synched the carbs again and thats where I'm at.
It's still not runnning great and I don't trust that if I go for a ride that I won't have to get towed back. I'm super frustrated cause I want the thing to work. I don't understand why it'll run for 30mins then just cut off, there's plenty of fuel in the tank.
I have inspected all the rubbed fittings there are minor surface cracks but nothing that's created leaks as far as I can tell. Haven't cleaned the air filter cause up until 2days ago I didn't know they had oil in them.
A strange thing I noticed the last two times I pulled the carbs I noticed that one of the float bowls did not have quite as much gas as the other but still had a little, so i dont know what that means

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What method are you using to clean the carbs? Ultrasonic is my preference. I put on a face shield and gloves and crank my compressor up to 100 psi and blow out the passages after cleaning. Be real careful if you do this.
Have you checked the inside of the fuel tank for rust? You also need to test the fuel pump.
This my favorite V star manual. https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf4/83/8236/823557-yamaha/v_star_1100.pdf?...

Just running carb cleaner through it and blowing out the passages with air compressor.
Fuel pump is solid
And the tank is interesting, it sounds like there are steel or copper pellets rolling around in there. (Hopefully copper). It seems pretty clean though.

I took her for a ride today and she’s running rich it seems now, not enough to cause me to worry, but she didn’t cut out on me so that’s a good place to be
Every time I get on the throttle it’ll jump the rpms like crazy I don’t have a tach but it sounds between 2-3k and I don’t know if that’s just a symptom of it running rich, but you can hear it in the video.

"False Idles
If your bike isn’t idling right, warm it up and take note whether adding choke (making the mix richer) or cracking the throttle ever so slightly (making leaner) makes the bike change behavior. Again, if you ride a modern bike you'll have no idea what a choke is, but even Electronically Fuel Injected motorcycles reveal a lot by “blipping” the throttle. Rich bikes are getting too much gas, so they idle high but lose power when given initial throttle because they can’t burn all the gas. For carburetors that suddenly show signs of being in a rich condition, gently whacking the bottom of the carbs to make sure the floats (tiny little pieces that control gas flow like the rubber piece in the back of your toilet) are free. Also check that the choke cable works. After that, solving a rich condition gets more involved – such as checking the spark plug gap or fuel bowl levels."
Paul Leonard - RideApart

Good work Edwin.

HI. I have read you have cleaned the carb three times. You need to remove the tank Then fill it with some small ball bearings and start shaking it untill your arms feel like they will fall off. Then do that all over again and get it cleaned and I mean spick and span cleaned. You need to replace ALL the fuel lines (hoses) Replace the fuel filter even if you have done this once. It did not work so far as I can read. You will need to replace the needle and seat, just cause they look good does not mean they are soft and plyable to compress correctly. Once all thecleaning is done them disacemble the carbs completly. Use some small drills and use them to remove any corrosion in the fuel passages and air bleed passages. Blow out with a good clean air. Not Carb cleaner as this will introduce moisture into all the clean passages and you will have just more trouble. I think that this set up has been setting for a while and the ethenal is causing all your troubles. Ethenal is the very worst thing you can have set in your fuel tank. I have done several of these same type repairs and it is not easy to get rid of all the contamination in a fuel system. It is not cheep..On the average twin carb system parts alone a run 250 +It can fake up to 8-20 hrs to just get the system CLEAN of all the ethenal crap. Ethenal turns your fuel in to a hard rocky substance. I have seen it a rusty copper to a bright yellow in color. This stuff will kill any fuel system if not removed completly. If you py pass any of this work and it is work and not much fun. You willalways have troubles with your fuel system. Good luck and take your time. This is what happens to all rigs that have been setting for more than 6 months. Ethenal is not your friend.

G'Day Moose, from COOMA NSW Australia, Welcome to the CC site - It sounds like the entire Fuel System needs a thorough cleaning and perhaps a few new parts to get it back up to Spec ... - It is the Only way to guarantee that you will have no problems for a long time ... If you are using fuel (Gasolene), keep away from any of them that contain Ethanol (called E10 here) - I always use 95 or 98 Octane (Petrol) here in OZ, the Ethanol fuel is not the best fuel for anything really ... But as the others have suggested Start at the top and work your way right through the entire Fuel System, a Clean, Rust and Contaminate free tank is paramount, as is the whole system, if you wish to have trouble free riding.

Replace ALL Rubber items in the system, Hoses, Pipes, Manifolds, Needles & Seats in the float bowls, maybe a test/check of the fuel pump pressure .... Make Sure that the Fuel Levels in the Float Bowls are correct and Within Spec ... I have seen the Rubber Intake manifolds with Splits/Cracks in them and the bike would run OK for a Static Test in the workshop, and run ok for a short while during a riding test, but once warmed up the heat would enable the manifold to become soft and allow the crack/split to open up causing a Lean Cylinder or two, and that alone can be frustrating for the unwary trying to get the bike running right ....

All of your descriptive tests have showed that the Jets were getting Clogged Up with foreign material of some kind, which means that the Whole System needs a Thorough Cleaning ... Needles and Seats can be an issue of course which includes the Float Levels, which should be set correctly, Needle& Seat kits should be available from the Yamaha Agent/s ... as would the Inlet Manifolds ... Just work your way through the entire system and Rectify anything that is Not Up to Spec, and you should have a Great Running Motorcycle for Many Years to come ...

Please let US Know How you are Getting along with it all - as We All wish to hear of a problem solved ...

Cheers & Ride Safe ...

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